29 May 2009

Abstracts!

Emilio Pucci has been famous for its colourful bold abstracts! Although his dresses can reach up to 10 000 Brunei Dollars (considered to be average for a company owned by LVMH - that owns LV, part of Gucci, Benefit, Fendi etc etc.). Anyway, I remembered his silk blouses were famous among mummies in brunei ages ago. Worn with black pants tia, with jeans tia. damn~ Hahaha.
So yeah, other than Lacroix, the recent designer to be appointed as Pucci Creative designer (or is it artistic?) is none other than the super talented british designer MATTHEW WILLIAMSON. I love his work. Very bright and colourful!






I wonder if his kain ada jual in Nazmi... hmm. I know there's some in Edgware Road. Itll be cool if I can get some...

Bye bye lacroix

It has been hard to find materials to post since my exam has finished. However, while reading vogue just now, it was unfortunate that Christian Lacroix (who is famous for his whimsical wedding dresses) has filed for bankruptcy yesterday. So I googled about it more. Apparently, throughout out its history, the couture line has never made any profit! Believe it or not. Who said the fashion industry is profitable. Expensive maybe, but profitable not a guarantee.

Picture above: Christian Lacroix Spring Summer 2009. Look at the fancy beadwork! Isn't the colour scheme similar to Dior's one in my previous post? White top, pink skirt.


Anyway, Christian Lacroix is famous for his 1980's pouf dress and bright colours! Christina Aguilera wore him for her wedding. I love his patterns! His abstracts! And i am not surprised after resigning, he became the creative director for emilio pucci. Pucci is the king of all abstracts! (more of pucci in next post.)

Picture above: Xtina in Lacroix wedding dress.

recession recession recession. Its affecting everything. Even my 20 000 word dissertation (due in 3 months) will also be on the current global economic downturn. *sigh*

Hugs!

Who's the best? Part I

Some of you have asked me who my favourite tailor is. This is a very difficult question. Infact I will post it in different parts. I dont even know where to start.

Before anything, like all of us, we are fussy laydehh. We want our baju kurung to be perfect always! all the time!. Not only that, Baju kurung is a big thing in Brunei. You wear it for raya, you wear it for work, wear it for weddings, formal occasions, thursday night tahlils well basically everything... And for these reasons, which is why you can see tailor in every corner of every kampung in Brunei.

CONSISTENCY:
However, choosing the right one is hard. For me, this is usually the case, the first time antar...LAWA ya. skali the next time antar to make 3 baju, BIDA ya! There's no consistency. Especially a few months before raya! OH MA GAD. Which is why ALWAYS antar your baju atleast 3 months before raya. (BESIDES: If you antar ahir, and bali kain ahir, u tend to wear to have the same kain as others.) Unless, u have a personal tailor living with you in your house. Hahaha.

CUTTING:
Other than their consistency, it all depends on our body shapes. For lean girls, whose hip is the same as her bust(owhh so lucky), you might not have this problem. Us bootylicious girls (my butt is 12 inch bigger than my waist.- soo yes--bootayy), if baju kurung is not done correctly, baju kurung will look like a maternity wear! *shriek* and if darts (tuck?) are done incorrectly, itll make us look twice our size! SO its the cutting cutting cutting and contour!.

CREATIVE DESIGNS:
Third, he/she listens to you. Owhhh thats the hardest, when you are in a young age, you want baju yg fashion forward, with gathers here and there, belt, assymetrical collar and skirt mcm mermaid tia, princess skirt tia, corset tia. I remember this tailor, she is perfect if you want to make baju biasa, but that time i ask her to do this and that.. "no i cannot do", "like that inda lawa bah mum" "better do this"...Like helloooo, I saw it on a magazine, just be creative and DO IT!

QUALITY:
This might be obvious for baju kurung with embroidery (katok) or the sheer fabric (eg french lace). Certain tailor, just dont have a cluee how to do an embroidery, they use matt threads and do not colour inside the line! haha. lawa lagi a kindergarten colouring! or sheer fabrics - the most important thing in the world are the seams!! Seams for transparent fabric has to be transparent. NO THREADS! Hmm..how should i explain it...ok kalau kain yg transparent, you're not suppose to show the threads thats joining the baju, there this special method to make the seam so all u see is a narrow fold instead of edging yg nampak banang and surprisingly, most tailor has noooo clue what it is all about.

PRICE:
Ahhhhh... this is THE main determinant. The more you are willing to pay, the less the problems i mentioned above (CONSISTENCY, QUALITY, CUTTING, CREATIVITY) will occur. However, the question is, how willing are you? What is the trade off between price and these problems? Which will you sacrifice? Money? or Style? -damn- There are a lot of people who are willing to pay $300plus or more for a baju kurung while a lot too who are only willing to pay for $12 for a baju raya.

SO I can't just make a comparison between different tailor, its not fair. it all depends on your preference, this is why, asking who's the best tailor is just a hard question to answer.

To be continued...

Part II: Maybe? Where is a good tailor in Brunei?

HUGS!

15 May 2009

To the bold fashionistas


So raya is coming, what is your collar this time? Tulip? Round? Square? V? or Boat-neck? To those who are bored of these type and coincidentally have an amazing tailor (hahaha...thats tough), why not try the collar above!

The left side has to be covered with a lighter fabric. which will make this baju a bit more impossible to make. But certainly not impossible. yes, This might be suitable for dresses. but not impossible for baju kurung! no? will it look weird? hmmm... maybe you can have this design for the beads on your baju kurung's collar instead!

who knows...

xRaix

White and Bright

Isn't it lovely... Baju kurung pendek or kebaya pendek white (thai silk would be perfect!) then for the skirt you make a princess skirt without the nettings (duh...) out of a bright silk kain. Abstract would be great.

And and...buat simple beads on the sleeve and bottom of the white thai silk (your top) with the same colour as your skirt! If you cant find any abstract kain, you can get a floral kain, and match the floral design of the kain with floral bead designs for the top!
Now all I need to do is to come (go?) back to Brunei, where the kain and beads are cheap!!!
xRaix

Chiffon and Beads

This is a caftan (kaftan?) from the DIOR Cruise Ready To Wear line. I love any cruise line! its so colourful and bright! Well, except for the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2009 handbags... eeeshh whats up with that.

Anyway...Remember in my previous post and said how beads look better on plain kain? This is a perfect example! (Well duh, its dior.) But, the good thing is you can make this to a baju kurung. I mean, imagine baju kurung with green chiffon (in dior's case, a silk chiffon) and buat manik on the collar saja (for those wearing tudung maybe the design should be bigger (so it wont be covered). Blue beads on Green! Gorgeous! (from previous post, this would be similar to colour combination no 3 -Using colour that are in a colour scheme). I emphasised the collar saja because if you leave the sleeve and the bottom of baju kurung 'beads-free' (heh, beads free... cant believe i said that) , you will appear sleek and taller. mcm nothing that cuts you horizontally - this works especially on soft fabrics like chiffon! pretty~. Now i want silk chiffon too...

TIP: It is better if you do not interline (lining) your baju, but instead you wear a tighter dress inside. Atleast the chiffon will flow better. I mean, sayang jua tu chiffon, its transparent and soft, indakan melakat ke badan :P . if you want a plain kain and malas with the lining (cos ususally at the tailor it will cos twice) and such, you can opt for satin silk or something.

How to make your waist look smaller

I think every woman should know this trick. This might be applicable to baju kurung fesyen (the tighter, contoured to your body type of baju kurung). By having darker shade on the side of your body, it can really make your waist appear smaller. Just take a look at the picture! Pretty!!

This really depends on the pattern of your kain (you know how some kain have different shades and patterns). Altho, i am still wondering which fabric to use. Karen Millen (the green dress on top) have used their 'signature stretch satin' for the dress and i dont really know where you can get stretch satin (maybe thats why it is 'signature'! And the sewing pattern will be hard. Imagine explaining this to your tailor. Haha.
Anyway, just want to share this with you. Who knows you can get the right fabric with the right pattern with the right shade for your baju kurung. Just remember darker shade on the sides~. Victoria Beckham wore the Alexander McQueen Dress (left) and her waist sure look darn small with it.

xRaix

09 May 2009

Lace on Plain


Lawaaaa. Can u imagine if it was for a baju kurung?? for Raya??? Maybe maybe maybe, for the kain and just wear a simple short kebaya on top. Hammana Hammana. Must have gorgeous Black Lace! Must find black lace! And the colour depends on the satin!
Exam in 4 Days!
xxRaixx

Choosing The Right Colour

Bead beads beads

Beads have different shapes and sizes. I dont really follow any particular rules when choosing my beads. Its all about choosing the right beads for the right design. I mean, for embroidery you want something shiny, so shiny kain you want something matt etc... it varies just follow your taste (in my case usually the customer's taste).
Anyway, colour combination can transform a blah dress to va va voom! Hahha. This is the reason why i love beading. Any boring dress will look amazing (given the right amount - don't want it to look tacky and cheap!).
These are my favourite colour combination. Taken from Vera Wang's colour combination for flower arrangements, there a 3 recommended colour combinations which i totally agree, which indirectly have been applied on my bead designs! Well, it is sorta obvious~

1. Monochromatic Scheme(different shade of the same colour)


2. Complementary Colors Scheme (a contrast between warm and cool hues)

3. Using colour that are in a colour scheme (either ALL warm colours or cool colours). MY FAVOURITE COLOUR COMBINATION EVER!!! Eg. make say ...a leaf with silver, light green and dark green beads it will look 3 dimensional! Amazing. Hope that helps!

Hope you guys get it.

07 May 2009

Designs


Raya is just around the corner people!

Here I am stuck in UK (ok fine I enjoy it, its my last year!). In search of kain raya, going online searching for cool kain (ebay is torture but some of the kain are pretty impressive), browse John Lewis and random indian fabric stores on Edgware Road, I go there often actually (speaking of which , a must see! - jason fabrics.com - 400labih pound per meter yooo! and they have PUCCI! love the patterns!) and sunday markets! Their fabrics are cheap cheap cheap! I guess this is better than nothing (replacing Athirah, shimco, serusop or 1st metro) *sigh*.
-
Speaking of 1st metro, I love! love! love! their jacquard silk, always pretty, and colourful! Which reminds me! Agesss ago, when i was there, i heard a mum saying to her daughter "Bah sudah membali?, baiktah kau membali di sini, mun tampat lain, orang brunei terdapat!" AHAHAHA! Eh hello, 1st metro atu di brunei jua. HAHAHA Adakah. seriously, our people. We crack ourselves up. Banartah. Do u think this is true now?


ANYHOOSS, Nowadays im into plain coloured kain or monochrome ones. I just think these fabrics bring justice to the bead designs as u can see it better and at the same time not OTT. Since summer is coming, there are tonnes of tunics and kaftan around in the high street, and they are so colourful and gorgeous! Especially Tunics! Dont u think they look like the top of baju kurung? Ill post more of that next!


SO as I was saying, here are some of the bead designs on plain or monochrome (am i using that word right? huh..) fabrics that i have found online!


Doesn't the beads look better on plain fabric?? Lawa! (Tips on How to choose the right colour beads! - next post. Insya Allah.)


Monsoon UK

By Zuhair Murad in his Diamonds are Forever line last year. Ok, maybe this is too much. I mean, Hello~ this is taken from his Couture line. so, take it down a notch, make it pastel coloured thai silk and give fewer icing. or else, MAJOR BLING BLING YO! (note to self: cut down my YOOO -getting on my nerve). But, I have always love wearing bolero (the short jacket) instead of sleeves for baju kurung, make it less boring. Also, you can wear it with your favourite tube or spag strap without covering the cutting. However getting a consistent tailor in Brunei is almost impossible. Skajap lawa ya. Skajap like whaaa~? How did this happen?

xRaix